Winter Food Guide & Perfect 3-Day January Itinerary for Varanasi

TL;DR: January = malaiyo (milk foam with saffron, sold until 11 AM), chooda matar (winter pea poha), and kali gajar halwa (black carrot). Best spots: Thatheri Bazar for malaiyo, Kashi Chat Bhandar for breakfast. Pair with a lazy 3-day itinerary starting at 7:30 AM. Scroll to "Lazy Winter Itinerary" for the day-by-day plan and taxi tips.

Eat, Pray, Explore: The Ultimate Winter Food & Itinerary Guide

Varanasi in winter tastes different. The summer lassis are replaced by hot milk, and the morning kachoris get a seasonal twist.

Winter-Only Delicacies (Don't Miss These!)

Malaiyo: The Winter Cloud

This is the #1 reason foodies visit in January.

What is it? Milk foam flavored with saffron, cardamom, and pistachios, left out in the winter dew overnight. It is light as air and disappears in your mouth.

The Catch: It is ONLY available in winter (Nov-Feb) and ONLY in the morning (until ~11 AM). Once the sun gets hot, the foam melts.

Where to find it: The authentic stuff is in the narrow lanes of Thatheri Bazar (near Chowk).

My Recommendation: Ask your driver to drop you at Chowk Police Station and walk 5 minutes into the lane.

Chooda Matar

The Banarasi winter breakfast. It’s flattened rice (Poha) cooked with fresh winter green peas, lots of cream, and spices. It’s heavier and richer than the Poha you get elsewhere.

Best Spot: Kashi Chat Bhandar (Godowlia).

Kali Gajar Ka Halwa

Forget orange carrots. In Varanasi, we use the dark purple/black carrots available only in winter to make a rich, intense Halwa.

The Perfect "Lazy Winter" Itinerary (3 Days)

Since the mornings are foggy and dark, don't force yourself to wake up at 4 AM. This itinerary is designed for a relaxed 7:30 AM start.

Day 1: Arrival & The Golden Evening

12:00 PM: Land in Varanasi (avoiding morning fog delays). Check into your hotel.

2:00 PM: Lunch: Try the Tamatar Chaat (Spicy Tomato Chaat) at Deena Chaat Bhandar.

4:30 PM: Head to Dashashwamedh Ghat. The sun sets early!

6:00 PM: Watch the Ganga Aarti.

8:00 PM: Dinner: Hot Jalebis and Rabri to beat the cold.

Day 2: Birds, Temples & Sarnath

7:30 AM: Boat Ride. The fog is lifting, birds are feeding. It’s magical.

10:00 AM: Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

Insider Tip: The queues are long in winter. Buy a Sugam Darshan ticket to skip the 4-hour wait in the cold.

1:00 PM: Drive to Sarnath. The afternoon sun makes the open gardens of the Stupa very pleasant.

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Day 3: The Excursion

Morning: Walk to Thatheri Bazar for Malaiyo.

Afternoon: Visit Ramnagar Fort (Best in winter as it’s an open fort) OR take a day trip to Vindhyachal temples.

Evening: Departure.

Ready to Plan?

Don't waste your precious winter daylight haggling for autos.

Book a Taxi for 3 Days to keep your winter jackets, shopping bags, and shoes safe while you explore.

Check Airport Transfer Rates for a fog-safe pickup.

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